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Koi pond water parameters: the levels that matter

Koi are hardy, but they're killed by water chemistry far more often than by disease. Six parameters cover almost everything. Here's where each should sit, the point where you need to act, and how often to check.

The cheat sheet

ParameterTargetAct whenTest
pH7.0–8.6<6.5 or >9.0Weekly
Ammonia (NH₃/NH₄⁺)0 ppm>0.25 ppmWeekly (2×/wk in spring)
Nitrite (NO₂⁻)0 ppm>0.5 ppmWeekly while cycling
Nitrate (NO₃⁻)<40 ppm>80 ppmBi-weekly
KH (carbonate hardness)75–200 mg/L<50 mg/LWeekly
Salt0–0.1% (normal)per treatmentAs needed

What each one is telling you

Low KH is the silent killer.

Carbonate hardness (KH) is your pond's pH buffer. When it drops below ~50 mg/L, pH becomes unstable and can crash overnight — taking the fish with it. It's the single most important "boring" number to watch. (Full fix in the related guide below.)

Pond turns a test reading into the exact dose

Enter your readings and your pond volume, and Pond gives the corrective dose — baking soda for KH, the right product for ammonia/nitrite — with plain-English, named-source warnings (Pond Informer, Microbe-Lift, API Pondcare) and seasonal reminders. Pay once, no subscription, works offline.

Get Pond on the App Store

Sources

General koi-keeping guidance. Confirm with your own test kit (an API freshwater master kit is the hobby standard) and act on trends, not single readings.